2022 Riesling Smaragd Steinporz Franz Hirtzberger

James Suckling 97 points: Stunning peachy nose with a fascinating smoky touch. Super-structured and super-mineral with a great deal of drive, this medium-bodied and finely-nuanced wine reminds me of the great Wachau dry rieslings of the 1980s and early 1990s. Amalfi lemon zest, candied orange and a slew of delicate spicy aromas at the extremely long finish. Drink or hold.