2018 La Combe des Fous Châteauneuf du Pape Clos Saint-Jean

The 2018 Chateauneuf du Pape La Combe des Fous features electric aromas of garrigue, exotic stone fruit, pomegranate, black cherries and perhaps even a touch of rose petals. Full-bodied and rich without being overly weighty or dense, plush and velvety on the finish yet vibrant and complex, this magnificent effort should drink well for at least a decade. From vines planted in 1905, it's approximately 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Cinsault and 10% Vaccarèse.

The Maurel brothers went the extra mile to send me tank and barrel samples of their 2019s, so I've included those reviews here alongside the reviews of the bottled 2018s. Both years are successful here—the 2019s maybe slightly denser and more concentrated than the more elegant 2018s, but they aren't always better. This estate has become a model of consistency and excellence.

Falstaff 98 points: Strong ruby ​​garnet, violet reflections, broader ochre rim. Fine spice of precious wood, a hint of black olives and tapenade, delicate liquorice, candied orange zest, multifaceted bouquet. Full-bodied, complex, sweet texture, dark cherries, ripe plums and figs, well-integrated tannins, mineral, has enormous length and great aging potential.