2021 Grüner Veltliner Kellerberg Smaragd Magnum FX PICHLER

James Suckling 98 points: Stunning and totally original nose of mango, lychee, Amalfi lemon and a complex mix of pepper aromas. Enormous concentration, yet it's so vibrant, the staggering mineral freshness slicing through the richness on the mid-palate like a samurai sword halving a melon. But that makes it sound more dramatic than it really is, because actually this is so still and earthed. Astonishingly textural complexity at the finish for a wine from this grape with just 13% alcohol. From organically grown grapes. Drink or hold.

Fallstaff 98-100 points: Light yellow-green, silver reflections. Delicate hints of mandarin zest, floral touch, a hint of fresh apple, orange and lime, dark minerality. Firm, tight-knit, has bite, underlined with fine herbal spice, fresh stone fruit, racy structure, salty minerality, shows enormous length without any opulence, precise and radiant, sure aging potential.