2017 Brunello di Montalcino Casanova di Neri

Parker-Monica Larner 94+, 2024-2038, The Casanova di Neri 2017 Brunello di Montalcino delivers unexpected grace and a floral profile that is not common to find in this scorching-hot and dry vintage. In faithful Casanova di Neri fashion, the wine is bold and dark in appearance, and although the bouquet is dominated by purple and black fruits, there is a brief interlude of fresh garden rose or lilac. That little moment changes up the momentum of this wine in a most positive way by allowing for a harmony of low tones and high tones that are well matched here. The wine is robust, structured and velvety to the palate, but ultimately this expression is far more delicate than I would have ever expected for a 2017 Brunello. This is a nice surprise.

The color is bright red and precise, the nose is fresh with hints of young red fruit, intense and sophisticated. In the mouth it starts with a fine and pure character that opens with precise tannins, with a perfectly balanced acidity between creaminess and silky consistency. Its finish is infinitely long.

James Suckling 91 points: A firm and chewy 2017 that is slightly austere but still provides a lively and dark-fruited palate. Medium to full body. Give this a year or two to soften. Try after 2023.