2017 Saint Peray Ongrie Alain Voge

Parker-Czerwinski 93 points: Produced from a single parcel of 50-year-old Marsanne vines, the 2017 Saint Peray Ongrie was entirely barrel fermented and spent 13 months in wood. It's toasty and buttery, a full-bodied, round, rich wine that bears a passing resemblance to top-flight Burgundy. Ripe pear and nectarine flavors are balanced out by lively tangerine notes and a softly dusty finish. I've kept my aging estimate deliberately conservative—I wouldn't be surprised if well-stored bottles drink well for a decade or so.

Jeb Dunnuck 92 points: The 2017 Saint-Péray Ongrie was hard to read on this occasion and was youthful and unformed, with bright, racy acidity but good concentration. Hide bottles for a year and hope it comes together. Note: This cuvée was created in 1984 and was originally called Cuvée Boisée and then Terres Boisées. It was renamed Ongrie in 2015.